If fashion ever had a motto, it would be this. Discard stereotypes. Shun the conventional. Keeping to this rule, the recently concluded New York Fashion Week SS17 had an element seemingly elusive in the industry—compassion.
Fashion prevailed in a humanitarian form, as leading designers took the stage to pay homage before showcasing their work: Victoria Beckham with a minute of silence for 9/11 victims and Prabal Gurung starting with a note to his mother. Not far behind were photographers in trademark blue jackets, paying tribute to the late Bill Cunningham. It was also a moving first for the brave Reshma Quereshi, an acid attack survivor who captivated everyone when she took the ramp in an Archana Kochhar gown.
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- Rag & Bone
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- Michael Kors
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- J. Crew
In another first, designers like Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors incorporated the new concept of ‘See-Now-Buy-Now’ shows. Design labels like Rag & Bone showed their mastery of androgynous design, adding to the genderless clothing movement while J.Crew swapped models for their presentation with employees showcasing a collection fit for teenagers to women in their advanced years.
A surge of new designers, like Bonnie Young and Michelle Aznavorian, made their mark. A motivated design aesthetic dictated many new designers. Indonesian designer Anniesa Hasibaun showcased an impactful hijab collection, never seen before on the New York runway. The young studio team at Oscar de la Renta carried on the designer’s legacy and present a full-fledged collection without a senior creative director—as models waltzed down in chic dresses and separates, there were, without a doubt winners in both instances.
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- OScar de la Renta
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- Bella Hadid for DKNY
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- Sara Grace Wallerstedt for Proenza Schouler
A new army of supermodels followed suit, led by Bella Hadid who walked for DKNY, her first time for the house. Starting young and fresh was Sara Grace Wallerstedt, a high school flair who debuted for Proenza Schouler and model Camilla Deterre, whose dark circles and no makeup routine is already trending in fashion circles.
Set design in NYFW was a study in innovation, be it Tommy Hilfiger’s Ferris wheel incorporating pier for his collaboration with supermodel Gigi Hadid or Rebecca Minkoff’s street affair in Soho. Kanye West’s outdoorsy programme was long delayed and guests, in empathy, could not refrain themselves from offering water to dehydrated models. When model Amina Blue took off her heels because they were too uncomfortable, the question of feasibility and fashion rose once again.
The notion of liberation by breaking away has always been in vogue. After all, isn’t fashion all about breaking the rules to give way to new ones? Whatever the case may be, NYFW was filled with triumphant homages, lineups, dressmakers, models, and a spirit of fellowship.
